How to Use Crampons and an Ice Axe Properly

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Jan 15
4 min read

There’s something incredibly satisfying about moving confidently across snow and ice — secure, efficient, and in control. But to get there takes more than just owning the right kit. Crampons and ice axes are two of the most important tools in winter mountaineering and ice climbing, and knowing how to use them properly can make the difference between a smooth, enjoyable day and a dangerous one.

I’ve climbed with loads of a different people in winter and one thing always stands out: the best winter climbers aren’t just strong, they’re efficient. They know when to use their tools, when to trust their feet, and how to stay balanced even on steep, icy terrain. In this post, I’ll break down how to use crampons and an ice axe safely and effectively.

Understanding the Basics

Before you set foot on snow or ice, it’s worth understanding what your tools are designed to do.

Crampons are spiked traction devices that attach to your boots, allowing you to grip snow, ice, and mixed ground.
Ice axes serve multiple purposes — they’re walking aids, balance tools, and crucially, they can stop a fall through the self-arrest technique.

Together, these two pieces of kit give you control, stability, and safety — but only if they’re fitted and used correctly.

Fitting and Adjusting Your Crampons

Your crampons must fit your boots precisely. Even a slight movement can cause instability or, worse, a loose crampon that comes off mid-step.

Choose the right type:
- Strap-on crampons fit flexible boots (B1).
- Semi-automatic crampons clip to a heel welt (B2).
- Automatic crampons require fully rigid boots (B3).
Adjust the length: Most crampons have an adjustable bar between the front and heel sections. Adjust it so your boot fits snugly.
Secure the bindings: Check that the straps are tight and properly threaded. Remove any snow or ice before fitting.
Test the fit: Give your boot a shake — the crampon shouldn’t move at all.

A common mistake I see is climbers walking with too-loose crampons. Spend the time to get this right — it’s worth it.

Walking with Crampons: The Foundations

Crampons change the way you move. They’re unforgiving of lazy footwork, and learning to walk efficiently takes a bit of practice.

1. Flat-Footing (French Technique)

On gentle slopes, keep all points of the crampon in contact with the snow. Walk flat-footed, placing your feet deliberately. This maximises grip and stability while conserving energy.

Keep your feet slightly apart to avoid catching your trousers or crossing spikes.
Use short, balanced steps and keep your knees slightly bent.
Practise walking sideways on slopes to get used to maintaining flat-foot contact.

2. Front-Pointing

On steeper ice or hard snow, use the front points of your crampons to kick into the surface.

Keep your heels low and your body close to the slope for stability.
Avoid kicking too hard — a firm, controlled placement works best.
When descending, lower your heels slightly to engage more points and avoid slipping.

3. Hybrid

For varied terrain, combine both approaches — front-pointing with one foot and flat-footing with the other. It’s especially useful on ridges or broken ground.

Using the Ice Axe for Balance and Support

Your ice axe is your third point of contact — think of it as an extension of your uphill hand.

1. Walking with the Axe

Hold it by the head, with the pick facing backwards and the adze facing forward.
Drive the spike gently into the snow with each step for balance.
On traverses, keep the axe in your uphill hand. Switch hands when you change direction.

This simple technique gives stability and acts as a safeguard if you slip.

2. Step Cutting

If you’re crossing a short patch of hard snow or ice, you can use the adze to cut small steps. While this is less common now that crampons are standard, it’s a valuable skill for short icy sections.

Self-Arrest: Stopping a Fall

This is one of the most vital skills in winter mountaineering. If you slip, you can use your axe to stop yourself sliding down a slope.

Hold the axe across your chest with one hand on the head (thumb under the adze) and the other gripping the shaft.
As you slide, drive the pick into the snow near your shoulder.
Press your chest onto the axe and lift your feet off the ground to prevent crampon points catching.
Keep pressure on the pick until you come to a stop.

Practise this technique on a gentle, safe slope under instruction — it’s far better to learn in a controlled environment than in an emergency.

Using Technical Axes for Steeper Terrain

For ice climbing or steep mixed routes, you’ll use two technical axes with curved shafts and aggressive picks. These tools allow precise placements in ice or rock and help you maintain balance on vertical ground.

Key points:

Swing from your elbow, not your wrist, to reduce fatigue.
Aim for solid placements — listen for that satisfying “thunk.”
Keep your weight balanced between your feet and tools, not hanging entirely on your arms.
Move smoothly: place both tools securely before shifting your feet upward.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Even experienced climbers occasionally make small errors that can lead to big problems:

Over-kicking: Wastes energy and blunts your crampons.
Crossing feet: Leads to trips or catching points on trousers.
Holding the axe too high: Reduces control and balance.
Neglecting practice: These skills fade quickly — revisit them each season.

Building Confidence and Efficiency

The best way to develop these skills is through hands-on instruction and repetition. Start with simple slopes, focus on good movement patterns, and gradually increase the difficulty. If you’re unsure about your technique or want to refine your efficiency, a winter skills course or guided session is a great way to build confidence safely.

Remember — crampons and axes aren’t just pieces of metal; they’re extensions of your movement. Mastering them opens up a new world of winter adventures.