Best Beginner Multi-Pitch Climbs in North Wales: 6 Routes and Areas to Get You Started

North Wales is one of the best places in the UK to start multi-pitch climbing. Within a relatively small area, you can find short two- and three-pitch routes, classic mountain climbs, roadside crags and long, adventurous routes on some of the most famous cliffs in Britain. But choosing your first multi-pitch climb can be surprisingly difficult. A route that looks straightforward on paper can become a very different proposition when you add route finding, rope management, belays, exposure, weather and the descent.

So what are the best places to start?

This guide looks at some of the classic areas that can provide a progression into multi-pitch climbing in North Wales, from shorter and more accessible climbs through to longer mountain routes.

Important: grades and route conditions are only part of the picture. Always check current guidebooks, access information and weather conditions, and choose a route appropriate to your experience.

What makes a good first multi-pitch climb?

Your first multi-pitch route doesn't need to be spectacularly long.

In fact, shorter routes can often be better for learning.

Ideally, your first route should have:

• Straightforward climbing

• Reliable protection

• Manageable route finding

• Good belay positions

• A relatively simple descent

• A grade comfortably below your maximum

• Reasonable options for retreat

It is also worth considering the weather.

A route that is an excellent choice on a dry summer day may be a poor choice in wet or windy conditions. This is particularly important in North Wales, where mountain weather can change quickly.

1. Idwal Slabs

If you're looking for a classic introduction to mountain multi-pitch climbing, Idwal Slabs is one of the first areas worth considering.

Situated above Llyn Idwal in the Ogwen Valley, the Slabs offer a collection of moderate routes on mountain terrain. The routes are long enough to give you the experience of climbing multiple pitches while remaining relatively accessible.

The setting is also part of the attraction. Rather than climbing a short roadside crag, you're already experiencing genuine mountain climbing, with the surrounding cliffs and peaks of Eryri providing an impressive backdrop.

Routes such as the Ordinary Route provide a useful introduction to the rhythm of multi-pitch climbing:

Climb → belay → bring your second up → reorganise → climb again.

For a climber learning multi-pitch systems, the area provides opportunities to practise:

• Managing multiple pitches

• Belay management

• Rope management

• Route finding

• Communication

• Moving efficiently between pitches

Idwal Slabs should still be treated as a mountain environment. Weather, navigation and the descent all need to be considered when planning a route.

Best for: a first experience of mountain multi-pitch climbing.

2. Tremadog

Tremadog is one of the most useful areas in North Wales for climbers developing their trad and multi-pitch skills. In fact its where I first started climbing and one of the reasons I live a stones throw away!

The crag sits at relatively low altitude and has a huge variety of traditional routes, including shorter multi-pitch climbs. This makes it particularly useful when you want the experience of multi-pitch climbing without immediately committing to a long mountain route.

There is plenty of scope for progression, too. You can start with easier routes and gradually take on longer or more technically demanding climbs as your experience develops. Routes like Hail Bebe (V Diff) and Christmas Curry are excellent routes to get you started, before moving onto VS classics like Grim Wall and One Step in the Clouds.

Tremadog is particularly good for learning how to manage the transition between pitches while dealing with fewer of the complications associated with high mountain climbing.

You'll need to think about:

• Where each pitch finishes

• Where to build or use belays

• Rope management

• Communication

• Route finding

• Descent

These are the skills that turn single-pitch climbing into genuine multi-pitch climbing.

Best for: learning and practising multi-pitch systems and progressing from single-pitch trad.

3. Tryfan Fach

More in the Ogwen Valley, Tryfan Fach provides another useful stepping stone towards mountain multi-pitch climbing. The routes here give you more of a mountain environment than many roadside crags while remaining relatively accessible.

It's a useful area for climbers who have learned the basic systems and now want to gain experience applying them on mountain rock.

As you progress, you'll begin to notice that multi-pitch climbing isn't simply about climbing more pitches.

You have to start thinking about the whole route.

Where does it go?

Where are the belays?

How long will each pitch take?

What happens if you can't find the next section?

How will you get down?

Tryfan Fach has loads on intro routes to get you started, especially in the Moderate, Diff and V Diff grades.

These questions become increasingly important as routes get longer and more committing.

Best for: progressing from crag-based multi-pitch climbing into mountain climbing.

4. Dinas Cromlech

Dinas Cromlech is one of the classic climbing venues of Llanberis Pass and a great place to experience the character of North Wales mountain climbing.

The imposing Dinas Cromlech cliff is home to several famous multi-pitch routes, including some relatively moderate options that can provide a useful progression for climbers who already have basic trad experience.

What makes the area particularly valuable is the combination of quality climbing, atmosphere and relatively straightforward access. You're climbing on a major mountain cliff, but without the long approach associated with many of the higher Eryri crags.

Routes worth considering

For climbers new to multi-pitch climbing, there are a couple of particularly good options:

Flying Buttress – V Diff A classic five- or six-pitch route and probably the standout recommendation for a first taste of Dinas Cromlech. It follows the prominent buttress and ridge on the eastern side of the crag, with varied climbing and excellent exposure. It is a genuine mountain route despite the relatively modest grade.

Spiral Stairs – V Diff Another classic at the crag, offering a different character to Flying Buttress and giving more experience of moving across exposed mountain terrain. It is often recommended alongside Flying Buttress as one of the easier classic routes on Dinas Cromlech.

Dives / Better Things – HS 4b For climbers who are already comfortable leading easier trad routes, this is a natural step up. It's a classic moderate route that introduces harder climbing while retaining the multi-pitch character and atmosphere of the Cromlech.

There are also famous routes such as Cenotaph Corner (E1) and Cemetery Gates (E1), but these are better regarded as objectives for climbers who already have solid experience leading multi-pitch trad rather than first routes.

The routes also give you a taste of the commitment involved in bigger mountain climbing. You'll need to think about:

• Building and managing belays

• Route finding

• Rope management

• Communication between pitches

• Protection and pitch length

• The route's descent and retreat options

Dinas Cromlech is probably better viewed as a progression venue rather than a first-ever multi-pitch crag. The climbing can be exposed and the routes have a distinctly mountainous character, so it's worth choosing a route well within your ability and checking the current guidebook carefully.

The approach and descent also deserve attention. The approach involves steep ground and the descent from the crag can be more involved than simply walking back to the road, so make sure you understand the complete route before setting off.

For climbers who have already climbed some single-pitch trad and want to start tackling classic mountain routes, however, Dinas Cromlech can be an excellent next step.

Best for: progressing from shorter multi-pitch climbs towards classic mountain routes in Eryri.

5. Milestone Buttress

Milestone Buttress sits directly below Tryfan's North Ridge and is one of the most accessible multi-pitch climbing venues in the Ogwen Valley. The crag is only a short walk from the A5, but the setting feels unmistakably mountainous.

The buttress has a mixture of easy classics and harder traditional routes, with several routes providing an excellent introduction to multi-pitch climbing.

Routes worth considering

Ordinary Route – Diff A classic easy route and a good option for climbers looking to practise multi-pitch systems on straightforward terrain. It is particularly useful for getting comfortable with belays, rope management and moving efficiently between pitches.

Direct Route – V Diff Probably the best-known route on the buttress. At around 75m, it provides a proper multi-pitch experience while remaining at a relatively modest grade. The route is popular, so be prepared for other parties on the crag.

Rowan Route – Diff Another classic moderate option, giving further opportunities to practise the fundamentals of multi-pitch climbing on the buttress.

Milestone Buttress is particularly useful because you can gain experience on the rock routes while being right beneath the much more committing terrain of Tryfan's North Ridge. The surrounding environment also gives you a taste of the route finding, exposure and mountain conditions that become increasingly important on longer routes.

The rock can be polished in places, and the character of the crag is more mountainous than its short approach might suggest. Always check the current guidebook for route details, conditions and descent information.

Best for: an accessible introduction to multi-pitch climbing and a stepping stone towards longer mountain routes on Tryfan.

6. Clogwyn Yr Oen

Clogwyn yr Oen is one of the most useful multi-pitch crags in the Moelwyns and a good alternative to the busier classics around Llanberis and Ogwen.

The crag has a good selection of traditional routes, including several three- and four-pitch climbs from V Diff through to Severe. Its relatively straightforward approach and south-facing aspect can also make it a good choice when you're looking for a quieter day on mountain rock.

Routes worth considering

Chic – V DiffA three-pitch route that makes a good introduction to the crag. It's a useful option for climbers wanting to practise multi-pitch systems on relatively moderate terrain without committing to a long mountain route.

Slack – V Diff Another straightforward multi-pitch option, with four pitches. It's particularly

useful for getting experience of the basic rhythm of a multi-pitch day: leading a pitch, building the belay, bringing up your second and then setting off again.

Bent – Severe 4a A natural progression if you're comfortable on V Diff. It's a four-pitch route that introduces slightly harder climbing while retaining the multi-pitch character of the crag.

Kirkus's Climb Direct – Severe 4a One of the more interesting routes on the crag, climbing a series of ribs, grooves and slabs over four pitches. The route finding is part of the challenge, making it particularly useful for climbers who want to start developing the judgement needed for longer traditional routes.

There are harder options too, including Pinky – VS 4c, which is a good progression for climbers who already have some multi-pitch experience.

One of the advantages of Clogwyn yr Oen is that you can make the day as straightforward or challenging as your experience allows. Rather than committing to a major mountain route, you can concentrate on becoming efficient with the systems and gaining confidence on multiple pitches.

As with any mountain crag, don't underestimate the importance of route finding and descent. The crag contains a mixture of routes and there are abseil options in places, so make sure you understand the descent strategy for your particular route before setting off.

Best for: quieter multi-pitch climbing and progressing from VDiff into Severe and beyond on mountain rock.

Learn multi-pitch climbing with How to Climb

At How to Climb, I offer bespoke private multi-pitch climbing courses in North Wales for climbers who want to develop their skills and become more independent on longer routes.

Courses can be tailored to your existing experience, whether you're a sport climber learning multi-pitch systems for the first time or a trad climber looking to become more confident on longer mountain routes.

Depending on your goals, we can cover:

• Multi-pitch rope systems

• Trad anchors

• Belay management

• Leading and seconding

• Route finding

• Rope management

• Abseiling and retreat

• Route selection

• Risk management

• Planning longer climbing days

The aim is to give you the skills and understanding to make better decisions on your own climbs.

Ready to start climbing longer routes? Explore the Multi-Pitch Climbing Course from How to Climb.

Frequently Asked Questions

What are the best beginner multi-pitch climbs in North Wales?

There are many options depending on your experience. Tremadog and selected routes at Idwal Slabs can provide useful introductions, while areas such as Tryfan, Llanberis Pass and the Moelwyns offer progression towards more adventurous mountain climbing.

How many pitches should my first multi-pitch climb have?

There is no magic number. A two- or three-pitch route can be an excellent first experience, allowing you to learn the systems without committing to a very long route.

Do I need to be able to lead trad before climbing multi-pitch?

If you're climbing a traditional multi-pitch route, you need the appropriate trad skills. However, sport multi-pitch routes can provide an alternative introduction to the systems without requiring you to place traditional protection.

What grade should my first multi-pitch climb be?

Choose a route comfortably within your ability. The grade should leave you enough physical and mental capacity to concentrate on rope systems, route finding and decision-making.

Is multi-pitch climbing dangerous?

As with all climbing, multi-pitch climbing involves inherent risks. The additional length and commitment mean that route choice, protection, belays, weather, navigation, timing and retreat planning become particularly important.

Can beginners climb multi-pitch routes in Snowdonia?

Yes, provided they have appropriate skills, experience and supervision and choose a suitable route. A short, moderate route in good conditions can be an excellent introduction to multi-pitch climbing.

When is the best time for multi-pitch climbing in North Wales?

The best conditions depend on the particular route and area. Lower-level venues may offer opportunities outside the main summer season, while mountain routes are more affected by weather, rock conditions and daylight hours.