The Best Places to Start Trad Climbing in North Wales

North Wales is one of the best places in the UK to learn trad climbing. From roadside crags and short multi-pitch routes to classic mountain cliffs, there is an enormous variety of climbing within a relatively small area.

For someone making the transition from indoor or sport climbing to traditional climbing, though, that choice can be a little overwhelming. Not every famous North Wales crag is a good place to learn, and some of the area's most impressive climbing is better saved until you have more experience.

So, where are the best places to start trad climbing in North Wales?

Here are some of the areas I would consider for developing your first trad climbing skills.

What makes a good beginner trad crag?

Before looking at individual venues, it's worth thinking about what makes somewhere suitable for learning.

A good beginner trad venue should ideally offer:

• A selection of easier routes

• Straightforward approaches

• Solid, reliable rock

• Good opportunities for placing and assessing protection

• Comfortable belays

• Relatively simple descents

• Enough variety to develop your skills without immediately becoming overwhelmed

The best venue also depends on what you are trying to learn.

Your first day placing gear and climbing easy single-pitch routes is very different from your first attempt at leading a multi-pitch climb.

North Wales has excellent options for both.

1. Tremadog

If I had to pick one area that demonstrates why North Wales is such a good place to learn trad climbing, Tremadog would be near the top of the list.

Tremadog is a relatively low-level crag south of Porthmadog with excellent rock, short approaches and a huge selection of traditional routes. Its lower elevation also means it can provide useful climbing when conditions in the mountains are less favourable.

There are routes from the easier grades upwards, including a number of excellent classics.

For someone moving from single-pitch climbing towards multi-pitch trad, Tremadog is particularly useful because many routes are only a few pitches long. This allows you to start developing the systems involved in multi-pitch climbing without immediately committing yourself to a long mountain route.

It is also an excellent venue for learning how to:

• Place and assess traditional protection

• Build anchors

• Lead easier routes

• Belay a lead climber

• Manage a second on multi-pitch terrain

• Construct and manage belays

• Understand route finding and descent systems

Tremadog is not necessarily the easiest place to simply turn up and climb without preparation, however. Route finding and descents can require care, and some of the classic routes are more serious than their grade might initially suggest.

Best for: learning trad, first leads and progressing towards multi-pitch climbing.

2. Tryfan Fach and the Ogwen Valley

The Ogwen Valley is one of the great centres of mountain climbing in North Wales, and there are several venues around Tryfan and Cwm Idwal that can be useful for developing trad skills.

Tryfan Fach is particularly useful for climbers looking to make the transition from single-pitch climbing towards longer routes. It has a number of easier climbs and is close to the road, making it relatively accessible.

The setting is also a step towards genuine mountain climbing. You get the experience of climbing on natural mountain rock without necessarily committing yourself to a huge route.

This makes it a useful progression venue for someone who has already learned the basics of trad climbing and wants to start understanding how those skills work on longer routes.

The Ogwen area also gives you access to classic mountain routes and more adventurous climbing as your experience develops.

Best for: progressing from single-pitch trad towards mountain and multi-pitch climbing.

3. Idwal Slabs

Another Ogwen gem, Idwal Slabs is one of the classic climbing venues in North Wales and an excellent example of mountain trad climbing.

The routes are longer than those found at many beginner-friendly roadside crags, and the setting is unmistakably mountainous.

That makes Idwal Slabs particularly valuable once you have some basic trad experience.

Rather than simply learning how to place gear on a short crag, you start having to think about the bigger picture:

Where does the route go? Where should I build my belay? How do I protect my second?What happens if the weather changes? How do I descend?

These are important skills for becoming an independent trad climber.

One of the best crags in North Wales for your first longer route, but take care with the descent.

Best for: your first proper mountain multi-pitch routes.

4. Llanberis Pass

Llanberis Pass is arguably one of the most famous climbing areas in Britain.

It contains an enormous variety of climbing, much of it on dramatic mountain cliffs. There are also some excellent easier classics that can provide an introduction to multi-pitch mountain climbing.

The important thing is to choose your route carefully.

The Pass has a reputation for stiff grades and serious climbing, so it isn't somewhere I'd recommend simply picking a route because it happens to have an apparently easy grade.

For an experienced climber making the move into trad, however, carefully selected routes can provide an excellent introduction to the atmosphere and commitment of mountain climbing.

The Pass has an abundance of two- and three-pitch climbing on generally good rock with varied aspects, good for finding some sun (or avoiding it!).

Best for: developing mountain trad skills and moving towards more adventurous climbing.

5. Holyhead Mountain

If the weather isn't looking great in the mountains, it can be worth heading towards the coast.

Holyhead Mountain on Anglesey offers a useful combination of relatively accessible climbing, lower-level routes and a very different environment from the mountains of Eryri.

The quartzite here also gives you a taste of the type of rock found on the famous Gogarth sea cliffs.

That makes Holyhead Mountain an interesting stepping stone for climbers who eventually want to progress towards sea-cliff climbing.

Best for: developing outdoor trad skills and preparing for sea-cliff climbing.

6. Rhoscolyn

Rhoscolyn is another excellent Anglesey venue and a natural progression for climbers interested in sea cliffs.

The climbing here is much more adventurous than simply climbing at an inland crag. You have the atmosphere of the coast, exposed positions and the additional considerations that come with climbing above the sea.

For that reason, I wouldn't recommend Rhoscolyn as someone's very first experience of placing traditional protection.

For a climber who already understands the basics, however, it can be an excellent place to develop those skills in a more adventurous environment.

It's also a great example of why North Wales is such a special place for trad climbing: within a relatively short drive you can go from mountain crags to dramatic sea cliffs.

Best for: progressing towards sea-cliff climbing and more adventurous trad.

7. Clogwyn yr Oen and the Moelwyns

The Moelwyns are sometimes overlooked in favour of the better-known areas around Llanberis and Ogwen, but they have plenty to offer.

Clogwyn yr Oen has several fantastic moderate multi-pitch routes and can be a useful option for climbers looking to gain experience away from the busier classic venues.

The routes here can provide a good introduction to the slightly more involved nature of mountain climbing while still offering relatively moderate grades.

The rock is different again, adding another useful element to your development as a trad climber.

Best for: quieter multi-pitch climbing and developing mountain experience.

So, where should you start?

There isn't one perfect beginner trad crag in North Wales.

The best venue depends on your existing experience and what you want to learn.

If you've never climbed outdoors before

Start somewhere that allows you to concentrate on the fundamentals rather than worrying about a long route or complicated descent.

If you're an indoor or sport climber

A good first trad session should focus on understanding protection, movement on natural rock, route selection, belaying and building simple anchors.

If you've climbed easy trad routes already

Tremadog, Tryfan Fach and selected routes around Ogwen can be excellent places to start developing your leading and multi-pitch skills.

If you're ready for mountain trad

Idwal Slabs, Llanberis Pass and selected routes in the Moelwyns offer a natural progression towards longer and more committing climbing.

If sea cliffs interest you

Holyhead Mountain can be a useful stepping stone before progressing to venues such as Rhoscolyn and Gogarth.

Don't choose a route purely by its grade

One of the biggest mistakes I see climbers make when moving into trad is assuming that the grade tells them everything they need to know.

It doesn't.

A Severe route on a roadside crag can be a very different proposition from a Severe mountain route.

The grade tells you something about the difficulty of the climbing, but it doesn't necessarily tell you about:

• Protection

• Route finding

• Exposure

• The descent

• Rock quality

• Belay positions

• Length

• Commitment

• Weather

• The consequences of getting something wrong

• 
  

This is particularly important in North Wales, where you can move very quickly from friendly crag climbing into serious mountain terrain.

Learning to assess the whole route, rather than simply its grade, is one of the biggest steps towards becoming an independent trad climber.

Learning to trad climb in North Wales

One of the great things about North Wales is that you don't need to travel far to develop your climbing.

You can start by learning the fundamentals on shorter routes, progress to leading easier climbs, then start tackling multi-pitch mountain routes and eventually more adventurous sea cliffs.

The key is making that progression deliberately.

At How to Climb, I run bespoke private trad climbing courses in North Wales, from an introduction to outdoor trad through to learning to lead, advanced trad and multi-pitch climbing.

The aim isn't simply to teach you a collection of techniques. It's to help you understand why you're doing something, how to make good decisions and how to become a more independent climber.

If you're an indoor or sport climber thinking about making the move into traditional climbing, you don't need to arrive already knowing what course you need. We can build the day around your existing experience and what you want to achieve.

Ready to start trad climbing? [Explore the How to Climb trad climbing courses →]

Frequently asked questions

Is North Wales good for beginner trad climbing?

Yes. North Wales has an unusually wide range of traditional climbing, from accessible single-pitch crags to moderate multi-pitch mountain routes and sea cliffs. This makes it possible to progress through different levels of experience without travelling far.

What is the best place to learn trad climbing in North Wales?

It depends on your experience. Tremadog is an excellent all-round venue for developing trad skills, while venues around Ogwen and the Moelwyns provide opportunities to progress towards multi-pitch and mountain climbing.

Can I learn trad climbing if I only climb indoors?

Absolutely. Indoor climbing gives you a useful foundation in movement and belaying, but traditional climbing introduces a completely different set of skills, particularly protection, anchors, route finding and managing risk.

Do I need to be a strong climber to learn trad?

No. Trad climbing isn't simply about climbing hard grades. A good introductory course can focus on movement, protection and decision-making at a level appropriate to your existing ability.

When is the best time to trad climb in North Wales?

North Wales has climbing opportunities throughout much of the year, but different venues suit different weather conditions. Lower-level crags such as Tremadog can be useful when conditions in the mountains are poor, while mountain venues are more dependent on weather and conditions.

Final thought

North Wales isn't just a place to tick a few famous routes. It's an excellent environment for learning how to climb independently.

Start with the right venue, learn good habits, gradually increase the length and commitment of your routes, and the progression from your first piece of gear to your first mountain multi-pitch climb can be incredibly rewarding.

And that's probably the best thing about learning trad climbing here: you don't have to stop progressing once you've learned the basics.